What is embroidery? A complete guide to custom embroidery for apparel
When you see a crisp stitched logo on a hoodie, cap, or tote bag, that is embroidery in action. While printing applies ink to the surface, embroidery uses thread to build the design into the fabric itself. It adds texture, depth, and durability, making it a favourite choice for brands that want their logo to look refined and professional on every piece. This guide covers what embroidery is, how it works, and how it differs from popular printing methods like screen printing and DTG.
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How embroidery works
Embroidery is a precise, mechanical stitching process that turns digital artwork into thread, creating a design that’s textured, durable, and built to last through repeated wear.
Artwork digitising and colour matching
Your logo is turned into a stitch file that guides the embroidery machine. Brand colours are matched to the nearest shades from our Madeira thread library to ensure every custom embroidered apparel stays true to your brand.
Hooping and stabilising
The garment is securely placed in a hoop, and a backing material is added to prevent distortion while stitching.
Stitching
The embroidery machine follows the digital pattern, layering thread with precision to bring your embroidered design to life.
Finishing
After stitching, excess thread and backing are trimmed, and the garment is pressed for a clean, professional look.
Different types of embroidery
Flat embroidery
Flat embroidery is the most traditional technique. Threads lie smoothly against the fabric to create precise, detailed artwork with a clean finish. This technique works well on most pieces, from lightweight tees to heavier hoodies and sweatshirts, offering a subtle, professional look for everyday wear.
3D embroidery
3D embroidery, sometimes called raised or foam embroidery, adds depth by layering stitches over a thin foam base. The result is a bold, sculpted design that stands out visually and to the touch. Because it requires a firm surface, it’s most commonly used on caps or structured garments where the material can support the extra height. Brands often choose this technique for bold logos or designs that need to make an impact.
Embroidery vs 3D Embroidery, Screen Printing, DTG
Why brands choose embroidery
Embroidery adds a sense of craftsmanship and durability to hospitality uniforms. From high-end resorts to wellness retreats, custom embroidered shirts and sweatshirts help teams present a polished, premium look that lasts through daily use.
Choosing the right fabric for embroidery
Embroidery performs best on stable fabrics that can hold stitches without puckering. At Assembly, our garments are made from 100% organic cotton chosen for its smooth surface and durability, ideal conditions for precise embroidery.
Ideal fabric weights
Medium- to heavyweight cotton is the best foundation for clean embroidery. T-shirts around 200 g/m² provide the right balance of comfort and structure, while heavier materials like sweatshirts and hoodies give even greater stability.
When to use lighter fabrics
Embroidery can be used on lighter cotton, but designs should stay minimal to prevent distortion. Our production team uses proper backing and tension control to keep lighter pieces smooth and professional.
Fabrics to avoid
Very thin cotton below 160 g/m², lightweight jerseys, or fabrics with high stretch or sheen tend to warp or pucker when stitched. These materials lack the structure needed to support embroidery and often cause uneven tension or visible distortion in the final design.
Design guidelines for clear, durable embroidered apparel
Good embroidery starts with the right artwork setup. To keep your design looking sharp and long-lasting, here are a few things to keep in mind:
Keep text legible: Small text can lose clarity once stitched, so avoid fine lettering or very thin fonts.
Simplify complex artwork: Embroidery works best with clean shapes and defined edges. Gradients, shadows, or small colour fades don’t translate well to thread.
Mind the spacing: Leave enough room between elements so the stitches don’t overlap or blur together.
Choose solid fills over fine lines: Thin outlines can break up on textured fabric, while filled areas give a stronger, more premium look.
Colour matching: Threads are matched to the closest Madeira shade based on your Pantone reference. The natural sheen of thread means colours can appear slightly different on each fabric.
Test before full production: We always sample complex logos first to make sure the proportions and details translate perfectly to thread.
At Assembly, our production team reviews every artwork file before embroidery, adjusting for fabric, thread type, and density so your design stays clear and consistent across all garments.
Embroidery placement
Embroidery is typically applied to structured areas of a garment, such as the chest or upper back, where the fabric holds its shape. On caps, it can be placed on the front, sides, or back, while on tote bags it’s usually applied to the front for clear visibility. At Assembly Studio, you can explore different placements and see how your design appears across products before ordering.
Minimum order quantity, lead time, and pricing
Because embroidery involves more setup than digital printing, production starts from a minimum of 50 units per style and colour. Most orders take around three to four weeks, depending on design complexity and colour matching.
Pricing is influenced by factors such as the stitch count, the number of thread colours, and the size or placement of the design. If you’d like an early estimate, you can view approximate costs and delivery dates in the Price Calculator, or see live updates while designing in Assembly Studio.
While DTG and DTF printing are ideal for smaller, quick-turnaround runs, embroidery is designed for larger quantities where you want a textured, durable finish that feels premium.
Care instructions
To keep your custom embroidered clothing looking its best:
Wash inside out at or below 30 °C.
Use mild detergent and avoid bleach.
Air dry or tumble dry on low heat.
Iron inside out, avoiding direct contact with the embroidery.
Following these steps helps preserve the colour and texture of the thread so each piece keeps its premium finish over time.
The lasting value of embroidery
Embroidery offers a timeless way to elevate your branded merch. It’s the technique of choice for brands that want a premium, tactile finish that lasts. Think custom embroidered shirts for front-of-house teams at resorts or wellness centres, embroidered hoodies for elevated retail collections, and personalised embroidered hats for brand launches or limited collaborations. Thread-based decoration brings depth and authenticity to every piece, giving your apparel a crafted, lasting feel.
